The short answer
All five look like gold. They differ in how much gold there is and how long it lasts. From most gold to least: solid gold, gold filled, vermeil, gold plated, gold flashed.
| Type | What it is | Gold layer | Base metal | Lasts |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Solid gold (10k to 24k) | Gold alloy all the way through | Whole piece | None | A lifetime |
| Gold filled | Thick gold sheet bonded to a core | At least 1/20 of total weight | Usually brass | Many years |
| Gold vermeil | Gold plated thickly over sterling silver | At least 10k, at least 2.5 microns | 925 sterling silver | Years with care |
| Gold plated | Thin gold layer by electroplating | Usually 0.5 to 2.5 microns | Silver, brass or copper | Months to a few years |
| Gold flashed / gold washed | Very thin gold layer | Under about 0.175 microns | Silver, brass or copper | Weeks to months with wear |
A micron is one thousandth of a millimetre.
Solid gold
Solid gold is gold alloyed with other metals for strength. The karat tells you how much gold it contains: 14k is 58.5% gold, 18k is 75%, 22k is 91.6%. It does not wear off, so it never changes colour, and it can be repaired or resized. It is also the most expensive option, which is why solid gold chain is usually sold by the inch.
Gold filled
Gold filled is made by heat and pressure bonding a thick sheet of gold to a base metal core. Under the US FTC Jewelry Guides, it can only be called gold filled if the gold layer is at least 1/20 (5%) of the total weight, marked for example "14/20 GF". Because the layer is so thick, gold filled wears like solid gold for years and is a common, affordable choice for findings and chain.
Gold vermeil
Vermeil (said "ver-may") is sterling silver plated with gold. The FTC Jewelry Guides only allow the name when the gold is at least 10 karat and at least 2.5 microns thick over sterling silver. That thickness is what separates vermeil from ordinary gold plating. Because the base is silver, vermeil suits people who want a precious metal underneath, and if the gold wears through after years of use, silver shows, not brass.
Gold plated
Gold plated jewelry has a thin layer of gold applied by electroplating. Thickness varies a lot between makers, typically from about 0.5 to 2.5 microns. The base can be silver, brass or copper. 925 silver that is gold plated is often sold as "gold over sterling silver" or "gold plated 925 silver". It is a good-value way to get a gold look, but the layer will wear with friction over time and can be re-plated.
Gold flashed (flash plating) and gold washed
Flash plating is a very quick electroplating step that leaves an extremely thin gold layer, under about 0.175 microns. Under the FTC Jewelry Guides, pieces with a layer this thin should be described as "gold flashed" or "gold washed", not as gold plated or vermeil. Flash plating gives the right colour at the lowest cost, but on parts that rub against skin or clothing, such as chain, the colour can wear off in weeks or months.
Rose gold and black rhodium
Rose gold plating is gold alloyed with copper for a pink tone, applied the same way as yellow gold plating, so the same categories apply. Black rhodium is a dark grey to black layer of rhodium, a platinum-group metal. It is hard and scratch resistant, but as a plating it also wears with friction over time.
How to make plated jewelry last longer
- Put jewelry on after perfume, lotion and hairspray.
- Take it off for swimming, showering, the gym and cleaning.
- Wipe with a soft dry cloth after wearing. No polishing cloths with abrasive, and no dips.
- Store pieces separately in a pouch or zip bag so they don't rub together.
Which should I choose?
- For pieces worn every day for years: solid gold or gold filled.
- For a precious silver base with a gold look at a lower price: vermeil.
- For fashion pieces, trying a design, or matching gold findings at silver prices: gold plated over 925 silver.
- Avoid relying on flashed or washed gold for chain worn daily.
What SAR Gems offers
Our 925 sterling silver rosary chains come in silver, gold plated, rose gold plated or black rhodium, all at the same price. For solid gold, see our 18k gold beads and findings and 18k gold rosary chains.